Touring Edinburgh, Scotland's capital
Genteel Edinburgh would never want to boast - but its tea, scones and palatial history are every bit as enthralling as London's - and can be had for a fraction of the price and at a much more leisurely pace.
As a bonus, this Georgian gem is small and endlessly walkable with history along every cobblestone street.
GETTING AROUND
BY FOOT Walking is the best way to see Edinburgh. With streets such as the Royal Mile, which stretches from the Palace of Holyroodhouse to Edinburgh Castle, tourists can amble from site to site and soak up history along the way. The terrain is hilly. It's easy to get lost among the winding streets and alleyways, but that's all part of Edinburgh's charm.
BY BUS If time is short, or if you want to see some of the city from the height of a double-decker tour bus, hop on. The local bus system, Lothian Buses, goes throughout the city and offers one-way tickets for about $2 or unlimited one-day travel for $5
(lothianbuses.com).
If you want to learn some history on your travels, check out Edinburgh Bus tours. They have four lines that hit all the major tourist stops, either with recorded or live guides ($25 for an all-day pass, edinburgh tour.com).
HISTORIC SITES
AND MUSEUMS
Edinburgh's central area is so rich in history that it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The organization cited the architecture and juxtaposition of the Old Town, which dates to medieval times, with winding streets and alleys, and the New Town, steeped in stately Georgian architecture.
EDINBURGH CASTLE Start your visit at the place that defines the city's skyline. Don't miss the 1 p.m. cannon blast ($21.70, www.edinburghcastle .gov.uk).
ROYAL MILE From the castle, head east on the Royal Mile, a touristy stretch that leads past museums, shops, churches and, of course, pubs, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the Queen when she visits Scotland. It's open for public tours ($16.70) as long as she's not visiting.
PARLIAMENT Just outside the Palace is Scotland's Parliament, which meets in one of the most strikingly modern buildings in the city. Inside, visitors can see the debating chambers or take a tour (scottish.parliament.uk).
BRITANNIA Away from downtown, along the port of Leith, check out the queen's retired yacht, Britannia. It offers a look at how the royal family traveled at sea for decades. Aboard the 412-foot ship, visitors can see the queen's sleeping chambers - separate from her husband's - and the room where Prince Charles and Princess Diana slept on their honeymoon. Sample the free fudge made on board (try the whiskey flavor) and indulge in the toasty scones and tea in the cafe on the enclosed top deck, where you can pretend you're traveling around the world ($16.50 admission, royalyachtbritannia.co.uk). FOOD
Fast food abounds, but head to the pubs for fish and chips or haggis, typically for about $13 (edinburgh-pubs.co.uk). Greyfriars Bobby's Bar, just opposite the National Museum of Scotland, serves a quick dish of haggis with tatties (mashed potatoes) and neeps (mashed turnips).
For a midday pick-me-up, try Cafe Lucano downtown. The Italian cafe just off the Royal Mile has half-priced baked goods most afternoons. Espresso and a scone runs about $5.
ENTERTAINMENT
AT NIGHT Live music can be found in many pubs. Sandy Bell's, near the University of Scotland, has traditional Scottish musicians performing most nights of the week, with no cover charge. Tiny and lively, if it's crowded you can't even see the fiddlers, but you can certainly hear them. Try a half-pint of beer, about $3.30.
LITERARY UNESCO has declared Edinburgh a "city of literature." Home to Scotland's favorite son, poet Robert Burns, it's also where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle found inspiration to create Sherlock Holmes and where J.K. Rowling started writing her Harry Potter series. Take a literary pub tour for about $14 (edin burghliterarypubtour.co.uk).
FESTIVALS Edinburgh is also known for its festivals. A fiddle festival is planned for Nov. 13-15, and Edinburgh's winter wonderland sets up in the Princes Street Gardens with a market and ice rink in the weeks before Christmas. In August, the city comes alive with the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, considered the largest arts festival in the world with 30,000 dance, theater, comedy and music performances
(edfringe.com).
