Ocean Code Handroll sushi opens in Carle Place
A handroll of toro and black truffle at Ocean Code Handroll Bar in Carle Place. Credit: Newsday /Corin Hirsch
Generations of Nassau County kids have cut their seafood teeth at the Red Lobster in Carle Place, which has been around for at least 35 years. Eventually, maybe, some graduate from fried to raw fish — and for them, Ocean Code Handroll Bar now awaits in the same shopping plaza.
Wedged between Red Lobster and the trattoria Passione, Ocean Code is an antithesis to both: A subdued, elegant grotto of earth tones and textures dominated by a room-length counter that serves as the sole seating, but for a communal table in the back.
Visitors are handed a pencil and small paper menu to choose from a succinct lineup dominated by the namesake handrolls, essentially fish, vegetables, mushrooms or herbs (mostly raw, though a few cooked) and sushi rice wedged into sheets of nori and wrapped to order. There are 15 in all, from straightforward rolls filled with marinated cucumber or crab to more ornate creations such as ika mentai (squid with roe), wagyu beef with shiso or toro with slivered black truffle mushrooms. Four to five bites each, the rolls start at $5.50 and top out at $16.75.
The rest of the menu is mostly given over to Japanese-style apps such as gyoza, fried oysters, kara-age-style chicken or squid — which comes with a savory mayo — sesame tuna and an uncommon dish called oden, which spots a skewer of beef in a dashi broth.
Ocean Code is still awaiting its license to serve alcohol, but will eventually spotlight a robust sake lineup; for now, there is yuzu lemonade, garnished with shiso, as well as tea and soft drinks.
Ocean Code Handroll Bar is open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner at 227 Old Country Rd., Carle Place. 516-544-6199.
