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Fyhre review: Ambitious, theatrical hibachi restaurant takes over night spot in Carle Place

The hibachi choices are highlighted by the combination of filet mignon and lobster tail at Fyhre in Carle Place. / Daniel Brennan

There are three ways to ignite Fyhre.

The first: from the clanging metal and ever-rising blazes at a dozen big hibachi tables, suitable for conventions of entertained kids, patient parents and assorted duets; the second, in another dining room, which, by comparison, seems a cloister with vows of silence. The bar and lounge up front find the middle ground, even during the lengthy happy hour.

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There are three ways to ignite Fyhre.

The first: from the clanging metal and ever-rising blazes at a dozen big hibachi tables, suitable for conventions of entertained kids, patient parents and assorted duets; the second, in another dining room, which, by comparison, seems a cloister with vows of silence. The bar and lounge up front find the middle ground, even during the lengthy happy hour.

They’re all next to each other, but not entirely separated. Your delicate crudo arrives in exceedingly respectful quiet, while a nearby voice-over lets everyone within five miles know “We have a birthday in the house!’ Cue the drums.

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And pick your show.

The ingredients are very good, whichever route you take, and whether you’re eating in or taking out. Expect a broad audience for the festivities.

That’s no surprise since Fyhre comes from the team that brought you Fhoo Sushi Asian Bistro in Rockville Centre, Lumix Hibachi and Sushi Lounge in Lynbrook, and the two branches of Xaga Sushi Asian Fusion, in Hewlett and in Merrick.

The group’s newest venture is an ambitious, theatrical one that seats more than 200 in the former space of Sugar Dining Den & Social Club. The 6,200-square-foot extravaganza is tucked away in the Plaza 200 Outlets off Glen Cove Road, where Big Lots is a popular neighbor.

Understandably, the renovation took 18 months.

Hibachi devotees will find the suburban-deluxe version of this, from the food combos to the high-pitch chef’s carefully choreographed shtick. The noise and special effects ensure you won’t drift off somewhere between the chopping and the ignition.

More metal clashes via spatula, fork and grill top than do all the swords of “Braveheart.” Squirt bottles send out long-distance streams of drink to willing diners; an airborne zucchini cube lands in a diner’s mouth as readily as a baseball finds Mike Trout’s glove. Balloon-dog hats add to the party, especially when tweens and younger abound. Yes, the sliced onion is tiered and becomes a volcano shooting flames at least 4 feet high.

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It’s fun, unless this is your third or fourth hibachi experience in recent decades. Things do get repetitive. But the grilled-to-order filet mignon and Black Angus strip steak are fine; likewise scallops, shrimp and lobster tails. Chicken, too. Noodles and fried rice do better than the unevenly cooked vegetables. The chef doesn’t dawdle. You could be done dining in an hour.

Japanese dishes, traditional and contemporary, raw and cooked, star in the adjoining room. Consider the daily specials, which may include crudo of baby yellowtail, accented with surprising harmony with sea salt, lemon juice, olive oil, jalapeño, tomato, onion and cilantro.

And a la carte bluefin fatty and medium fatty tuna easily stand out. Also try either sushi or sashimi of Spanish mackerel, jumbo sweet shrimp and striped bass.

Fyhre prepares all the familiar rolls, from respectable spicy tuna to the cucumber-wrapped naruto union of tuna, salmon, yellowtail and avocado. The NY autumn roll brings together tuna, smoked salmon, avocado and fresh salmon, juiced up with wasabi-fueled flying fish roe. The tuna trio roll adroitly combines spicy, maguro and white tuna with no casualties.

You can skip the routinely overorchestrated tuna pizza in favor of the Lumix dumpling, a tribute number with lobster salad, crab and avocado.

Steamed shrimp dumplings and pan-fried pork dumplings, however, taste standard-issue, as does the not quite crisp enough vegetable tempura. The house’s crisp duck roll could use more duck. Refresh yourself with either the lush lobster-mango salad or the crunchy, satisfying seaweed salad.

Fyhre’s lemongrass-seafood soup has a tangy undercurrent, and a generous catch; house-made wonton soup ranks up there pretty high in the local competition.

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Desserts need not concern you. The limp tempura banana makes you long for the caramelized fried variety. And the rendition of a napoleon has reached Elba.

Cool off with ice cream.