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Review: GLYHOP Pancake House Restaurant

THIS RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED

joan.reminick@newsday.com GLYHOP Pancake House Restaurant FOOD 149 Glen St. Glen Cove 516-277-2288

COST$-$$AMBIENCE Very good SERVICE Good ESSENTIALS Breakfast and lunch only, Tuesday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Accepts major credit cards; wheelchair accessible. A contender for Long Island's oddest restaurant name is GLYHOP Pancake House, which fully translated, reads "God Loves You House of Pancakes Pancake House." Actually, there's nothing overtly religious about the pretty breakfast and lunch cafe, which shares ownership with the GLY religious store in Glen Cove. Situated in the lower section of the 19th century Coles House, the place has an on-premise bakery and outdoor seating. Its most compelling attribute, though, is the carefully sourced menu of chef Carol Giulianelli.

ANGELS A basket of moist, sweet corn bread squares keeps me a bit too occupied before the rest of the meal arrives. At breakfast, a spinach, tomato, mushroom and scallion omelet is savory and satisfying, accompanied by oniony well-seasoned home fries. Whole-grain maple-pecan pancakes are light in texture and rife with nuts. Lunch gets off to an auspicious start with a hyper-flavorsome chipotle chicken soup loaded with shreds of dark and white meat. Wild salmon cakes are crisp and subtly redolent of dill, plated over a mix of field greens and served with a red pepper rémoulade. Better still is a salad of pan-seared wild salmon over romaine, frisee and pink grapefruit sections with a Caesar-style dressing. The fish is spice-rubbed and a perfect medium-rare. I'm also happy with a shrimp and feta salad - large, nicely cooked shellfish over spinach, capers and roasted tomatoes, the combination lightly dressed with a lemon and olive oil vinaigrette. A grilled "Caprese" sandwich (fresh mozzarella, pesto and slow roasted tomatoes) has spunk and spirit. So, too, does a grill-toasted flatbread sandwich: moist grilled chicken, provolone, roasted tomato and spinach. Concluding the meal on a sweet-tart note is a slice of Key lime pie with a rich filling that resembles cheesecake - not a bad thing.

AND DEMONS What the menu calls "turkey sliders" is actually an unwieldy open-faced crostini sandwich of two small, yet flavorful, turkey burgers topped with roasted tomato salsa and feta vinaigrette. An apple-crumb cake from the restaurant's bakery is too sweet and rather heavy. The biggest letdown, though, is an order of buttermilk pancakes with exteriors that are hard enough to bang with a fork.

BOTTOM LINE Angels outnumber demons; virtue triumphs.

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