New to Korean food? Try a scallion pancake (pajeon), which may be ordered with bits of seafood inside (haemul pajeon). Although fried to a crisp, these pancakes are usually light and fluffy within.

Here are four restaurants that do them well.

JANE CAFE, 92 Main St., Mineola

At this simple storefront serving both Japanese and Korean food, the mixed seafood-scallion pancake is a comforting treat. ($11.99)

SSAMBAP KOREAN BBQ, 2350 Nesconset Hwy., Stony Brook

This spacious Korean barbecue house serves a lacy-edged seafood-scallion pancake you'll want to return for. ($8)

advertisement | advertise on newsday

SURASANG, 336 Jericho Tpke., Syosset

The seafood and scallion-studded pancake at this strip mall spot is crunchy on the outside, pillowy within, imbued with a lovely onion flavor. ($16)

DORI KOREAN RESTAURANT, 1087 Jericho Tpke. Commack

The flavors of Korea come through loud and clear here, both in the classics and in a smattering of Chinese dishes with a Korean twist.  A fine starter to share is the seafood pajeon, a crisp yet pillowy pancake studded with scallions, clams, shrimp and squid. ($9.95)