The inspiration: Joseph Altuzarra wants to explore notions of luxury, craftsmanship and most notably—color. “It is the first time that color is such a big part of the collection," wrote the designer in his program notes. “It is a lot about joy, a lot about freedom, but also about finding restraint within that freedom.”
The vibe: Energetic, sexy, sensual—these words come to mind when contemplating the hand-woven tapestry dresses and tops made of soft, thick wools, with strips of neon pink, canary and forest green.
The lust-o-meter: A series of sumptuous wrap coats with massive lapels keeps the craving level high. They're dramatic, and look so darn warm. And sheath dresses in gray neutral tones pop with strands of unexpectedly vivid shades of magenta and persimmon.
Say what? Intarsia fur coats—with about 70-plus pieces of fur—are dyed explosive shades of neon, in a criss-cross print that seems to mimic the bright plaid of a standard-issue cloth coat. Fur made to look plaid? A cheeky idea that ultimately came off looking a tad garish.
Our take: The craftsmanship that goes into his tapestry dresses is undeniable and eye-catching, but he may need to dial down the Technicolor palette just a bit.