The inspiration: Given the old-timey jazz music, and the models’ plastered-down bobs, it seems clear that Anna Sui was preoccupied with the 1920s, whether in Hong Kong, Shanghai or even the Chinatown neighborhoods of Los Angeles or San Francisco
The vibe: Eclectic, sassy, maybe even a little dangerous, with a mix of patterns that's busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy.
The lust-o-meter: High, especially for the Anna May Wong tees, and the camouflage jacquard jackets and parka. The camo shimmers when the light hits it. This being Sui, of course, she can’t resist throwing in a hint of the 1970s (the long tunic-like vests, the tassel pendants). And then there’s the leopard print (on a rabbit fur coat, or faux fur cape). Timeless.
What the…? If you’re not a committed print mixer, the line may come off as busier than Times Square on New Year’s Eve. One outfit, for instance, combines an Aztec geo print (jacket and skirt), paisley (top) and stripes (vest). There are a few solids, of course—most notably that ruby Mongolian fur coat, yet another of this season’s omnipresent, oversized coats.
Our take: In lesser hands, this mishmash of prints and textures would look like an explosion in a fabric warehouse, but Sui is as much stylist as designer—she knows what works together, and is bold enough to try it.