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Anna Sui's sweet hooters

The Anna Sui Fall 2012 collection is modeled

The Anna Sui Fall 2012 collection is modeled during Fashion Week. (Feb. 15, 2012) Credit: AP

Anna Sui shows can often be like your favorite roller coaster ride—full of exuberance, colorful highs and lows, and a certain…familiarity.  We’ve been on this track before, you see, so we know basically what to expect—the crazy, kitschy prints, dizzying color combos, a whole lotta babydoll dresses.

Not this time.  Oh, it’s kitschy, colorful and eccentric, all right, but also…elegant.  Refined.  Somehow.

Maybe it’s the color palette, which in some seasons is dialed up to a searing sunspot brightness, but is easier here.  Or the variety of looks—Sui’s got you covered, from office (dress and jacket combos), to weekend (crochet) to poolside (lotsa caftans). Whatever the reason, the look is polished…which is saying something, considering how many models wore those amusing crocheted owl and bird hats.  (They were designed by James Coviello.)

Keep on the lookout for her coats—a brick Mongolian faux fur, with the bottom half like a fuzzy shag rug.  Or a boiled wool coat in giant cadet blue plaid.

Romantics will race for the “Love Letter” appliqué cardigan, or the velveteen varsity jacket.  Or ohhhh, those many accessories, from jewelry (Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui), to shoes (Fiorentini + Baker for…) to bags (for Coach). Hey—the woman sure knows how to collaborate.

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