During the past five years, seafood restaurants on Long Island have improved with the certainty of the tides. Yes, you’ll still find flounder stuffed with crabmeat and salmon dutifully blackened. But now, there’s much more to the catch, from a new generation of oyster bars to remade classics. Here’s Newsday’s list of the top 10 seafood restaurants for 2017.
Note: Most dishes mentioned are samples of the restaurants’ menus and may not be available at all times. Seasonal changes and dish substitutions are common.
Artie’s South Shore Fish Market and Restaurant
Artie's South Shore Fish Market and Restaurant (4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park): The late Artie Hoerning, fisherman and fish monger, was the force behind this very casual, impeccably fresh seafooder, where you could eat in, take out, or just pick the day's catch to cook yourself. Artie's has stayed true to its beginnings, guided by Hoerning's vision. Recommended: raw oysters, scallops oreganata, almond-crusted sole, grilled tuna, grilled swordfish, broiled or steamed lobster, "garlic" lobster, New England-style clam chowder, whole baked clams, fried calamari. More info: 516-889-0692, southshorefish.com
Horseradish baked clams are served at Artie's South Shore Fish Market and Restaurant in Island Park.
Dave’s Gone Fishing
Dave's Gone Fishing (467 E. Lake Dr., Montauk): Last summer, Dave's Gone Fishing opened at the former site of Fishbar. It's the work of Dave and Julie Marcley, who'd operated Dave's Grill in Montauk for decades. Their new, waterview venture is less formal and full of flavor. Recommended: smoked tuna spread, mussels Provencale, butter-poached lobster roll, stuffed and baked lobster, onion-and-potato crusted flounder, linguine with local clams, cioppino with lobster, scallops, clams, shrimp, mussels and calamari. More info: 631-688-9190, davesgonefishing.com
Tuna tempura sushi is served at Dave's Gone Fishing in Montauk.
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House (25 Main St., Roslyn): The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House has been a consistently top surf-and-sometimes-turf destination since 1957. Steven Scheiner is currently the chef-owner of the family's restaurant, which has a clubby, traditional look and manner. Recommended: stone crabs, shad and shad roe, Nantucket Bay scallops, bluepoint oysters, fish and chips, steamed lobster, Maryland crabcakes, fried Ipswich clams, broiled red snapper, macadamia-nut crusted salmon, banana cream pie. More info: 516-621-0055, jollyfishermanrestaurant.com
Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with spinach and stuffed baked potato is served at Jolly Fisherman Seafood & Steak House in Roslyn.
Kyma (1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn): Whole, grilled fish and Greek specialties are the essentials at this excellent, handsomely appointed seafood spot, which is marked by standout service. Recommended: whole royal dorado, red snapper, pompano, black sea bass, and fagri, or pink snapper; grilled tiger shrimp; grilled langoustines; grilled octopus; zucchini and eggplant chips with tzatziki; all Greek spreads; moussaka; saganaki; Greek salad; charcoal-grilled sirloin steak; all desserts. More info: 516-621-3700, kymarestaurants.com
Grilled tiger shrimp is served at Kyma in Roslyn.
Limani (1043 Northern Blvd., Roslyn): This over-the-top eye-catcher rises like a temple to Greek fare, especially seafood. Recommended: roasted beets and skordalia, kefalograviera, stuffed and grilled calamari; whole fagri, red snapper, and black sea bass for two; royal dorado; Dover sole; halibut; grilled langoustines; head-on shrimp; raw oysters; lamb chops; sirloin and rib-eye steak; Sunday brunch. More info: 516-869-8989, < href="https://www.limani.com/">limaniny.com
Whole grilled fagri, a Greek snapper, is served open and de-boned with lemon and capers at Limani in Roslyn.
Louie’s Grill & Liquors
Louie's Grill & Liquors (395 Main St., Port Washington): Louie's started as a shellfish bar on a barge in 1905 and has evolved into an accommodating local standby for generations. It has never been better than now, under newly appointed chef Tomo Kobayashi. Recommended: lobster tacos, fish tacos, Maine lobster roll with house-made chips, New England-style clam chowder, the raw bar, sole en papillote, lobster Cantonese, steamed lobster, bone-in rib-eye steak, panna cotta with crystallized ginger and yuzu. More info: 516-883-4242, louiessince1905.com
Clams on the half shell are served chilled on ice and a bed of seaweed at Louie's Grill & Liquors in Port Washington.
Noah's (136 Front St., Greenport): Noah Schwartz's downtown winner is both traditional and contemporary, in look and on table, with plates large and small. Recommended: crab-stuffed deviled eggs, hamachi crudo, warm lobster roll, Tasmanian red crab tacos, Long Island clam chowder, pan-roasted Atlantic halibut, crisp oyster po'boy, fish and chips, spiced and skewered octopus, roasted local beets, filet mignon sliders, pulled duck and duck confit from Crescent Duck Farm, Long Island seafood jambalaya. More info: 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com
Long Island clam chowder is served at Noah's in Greenport.
The Plaza Cafe
The Plaza Cafe (61 Hill St., Southampton): Douglas Gulija's elegant and easygoing restaurant is, on any day, Long Island's big catch: creative, seasonal, devoted to outstanding ingredients. Recommended: lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie, horseradish-crusted cod, pan-seared local calamari with piquillo peppers and preserved Meyer lemon, local fluke sashimi, wild sockeye salmon crudo, oysters with sturgeon caviar, pancetta-wrapped wild Pacific shrimp, local black sea bass, herb-crusted rack of lamb, all desserts. More info: 631-283-9323, plazacafe.us
Grilled Montauk sword chop with crab seasonal vegetable risotto and grilled garlic scapes is served at The Plaza Cafe in Southampton.
Salt & Barrel
Salt & Barrel (61 W. Main St., Bay Shore): Every town on Long Island could use a restaurant such as Salt & Barrel, for its fine oyster bar and attractive, streamlined restaurant. Recommended: west and east coast oysters, shellfish towers, warm butter-poached lobster roll, tarragon biscuits with honey and truffled ricotta, deviled eggs, baked clams, casino clam toast, dashi-steamed clams, lemon-panko fried oysters, shrimp and grits, mussels in creamy lobster broth, bigeye tuna tartare, layer cake, lemon curd parfait. More info: 631-647-8818, saltandbarrel.com
The captain's shellfish tower is served at Salt & Barrel in Bay Shore.
Southold Fish Market
Southold Fish Market (64755 Main Rd., Southold): Charlie Manwaring's market and informal restaurant is visited by fishermen, restaurateurs, diners, anybody looking for very fresh seafood. Recommended: Peconic Bay scallops, charbroiled oysters with garlic-butter sauce, fish tacos with cod, the fish Reuben with cod, lobster roll, scallop-bacon-ranch quesadilla, seafood salad, clam strips, grilled swordfish, fried Ipswich clams, New England and Manhattan clam chowders, corn fritters. More info: 631-765-3200
Sesame seed-crusted tuna is served up on top of a salad with a bit of pickled ginger and wasabi at Southold Fish Market.