There was a luxurious ease to Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein collection – the last big show of fashion week on Thursday -- reflected in gracefully curved hourglass shapes that embraced the body but didn’t strangle it.
The designer employed suspension tailoring to sculpt the architectural lines which were enhanced by shiny hammered silver belts at the waist, and while the look was extremely modern, it was approachable.
Most interesting here was Costa’s use of textural materials which were sumptuous and tactile and varied. He mixed these beautifully – a wool flannel shift was fronted with shaved shearling, a shirt combined wool, mohair and leather, a pleated leather skirt had fabric panel insets lightening the look. You wanted to feel the clothes: wispy mohair, sleek pebbled surfaces and even some unexpected silk embroidery.
A few bright colors – poppy and salmon -- were lighter moments in the predominantly dark show of onyx, midnight and classic black. But all that darkness was probably just fine with Dragon girl Rooney Mara who was in the house, front and center.