Francisco Costa focused on texture and tailoring for his fall Calvin Klein collection, which was, in the color department, the quietest of palettes – gray, wheat, white – with a bit of black. Models with swingy, sleek ponytails wore cool, chunky heeled pumps – some in white brushed calf – which made their long runway walk much easier.
It was a minimalist show with a slightly mod twist – a trapeze-like silhouette was not quite as exaggerated as it’s truly mod sister, but it had the vibe. The cuts were pretty loose by Costa’s standards, though one boxy coat in gray was downright bulky.
The real interest factor of these pale pieces lay in the fabric combinations and treatments. One sheath featured a metallicized bib, an alpaca-cashmere cropped jacket had a ribbed “baseball” collar, a silk boucle fold dress looked as though it had flat wings that were folded back and tacked down. There was a “needle-punched” shearling that appeared to have been raked, and shredded shifts of jacquard silk ribbon.
We particularly loved the sheaths with leather detailing around the neck. But the question is, for all Costa's precision, will women shell out huge bucks for clothes that barely whisper? We’ll see.