Inspiration: At his downtown show on Thursday afternoon, Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa delivered a slick, seasonless collection that was both powerful and feminine which, he said in notes, was inspired by menswear.
The vibe: Cool, composed, ladylike but confident, Costa was intent on, “Making the body a little more exposed in a way, you know, giving the woman more curve…,” he told The Associated Press. To that end, fit-like-a-glove elongated tunics (they could stand alone as dresses) topped fluted skirts. The tops were sporty -- racer backs and sleeveless tanks done up in mostly indigo, black and papyrus white save for a two lipstick red looks in leather. Textures were glossy, some slick -- one look featured a gigantic metallic embroidered orb and a dress boasted metal straps. Detailing was subtle -- modernistic patchwork, inset netting and scalloped hems. High shoes with thick Lucite heels added to the cool factor, as did having Sarah Jessica Parker and Rooney Mara in the front row.
Lust-o-meter: Any coat in the collection would serve its owner well, though a cropped leather jacket worn over a flared top and pants was superb, but even better a glossy knit marine blue coat with fringe details -- wow. All the elongated tops over diaphanous skirts, well you’ll be seeing a lot of this easy-to-wear look.
What the…?: Costa’s collection was the least springy of the week -- to be honest it could work year round. From an economic standpoint, well the notion of not having to change up your wardrobe is swell, but is that what women want? We’ll see.
Our take: Very distinctive, strong and feminine without a whiff of froufou, there’s a definitive Costa signature here.