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Carolina Herrera at New York Fashion Week: The Illusionist

Model Karlie Kloss walks the runway at the

Model Karlie Kloss walks the runway at the Carolina Herrera fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 at The Theatre at Lincoln Center. (Sept. 9, 2013) Credit: Getty Images

The Kinetic Art movement and Venezuelan artists Carlos Cruz-Diez and Jesus Rafael Soto were the inspiration for Carolina Herrera’s morning show at the tents on Monday.

Herrera’s collection was luxe and polished but definitely not stodgy. Here, layered fabrics emblazoned with optical prints -- lines and striping that tricked the eye -- had added dimension in swirling chiffon and organza. They floated down the runway but there was nothing overblown in terms of volume. To prove the slimmer point, there was even a bikini with a sarong-like organza overlay. Detailing included strong geometric embroidery, sparkly-jeweled embellishment and appliques.

This season, a black and white palette is assumed, and Herrera had it. But these were enriched and enlivened by shades of clay, green and purple which seemed so fresh and had a tiny bit of edge.

“Carolina really understands what a woman wants and needs,” said actress Molly Sims, who was at the show, wearing a red Herrera cocktail dress. "She’s a mother, a wife, a friend, a grandmother. Everything does is so feminine. I wish she was my mother,” she said. Hmmm. That would mean free clothes, Molly. Yay!

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