A gorgeous swirl of chiffon, organza, twill and georgette drifted down Carolina Herrera’s runway Monday morning at the tents at Lincoln Center as the designer showed off a slimmer, more modern collection of dresses, gowns and even shorts (yes, shorts — high-waisted flounced jobs) for Spring 2013. There wasn’t a ladies-who-lunch society suit or a wide ballgown in the bunch – Herrera hallmarks – though one skirt fit the bill, topped, however, with a humble short-sleeve knit.
The designer retained the glamour without the silo. Program notes said the collection was a study of “lightness and fluidity,” and the dreamy palette of sea foam, pale blue and ivory was on the money, electrified with pops of orange and yellow. It was romantic, yet sharp as the masterful Herrera cleverly balanced the ethereal fabrics with graphic abstract prints.
Waists were defined by skinny belts, shoulders were narrow, and dresses and gowns grazed the body neither tight nor voluminous. And rather than building to over-the-top crescendo, Karlie Kloss closed the show in a sweet, pearl-pink blouson dress with embroidery and lace – and she was wearing flats. Lovely!