Derek Lam’s models walked past large, mirrored structures, like giant picture or window frames, at his runway show at a warehouse in SoHo by the Hudson River. Abandoned artwork? Portals to another dimension? The meaning of these structures wasn't clear. In fact, the set was rather cold and austere. The collection, however, was anything but.
Lam found a way to infuse a surprisingly sporty feel to pieces dominated by clean lines and silhouettes. Take the first look: a lambskin pencil skirt — very proper — but embroidered with flowers and worn with a double-faced gray wool pullover that resembled a bomber jacket. Next up, an ivory, floral, satin suit with jacket more like a Windbreaker than a standard blazer.
Lambskin was used in traditional shift dresses, but also in a turtle with laser-cut neck.
Lam reversed gears, too, taking a basic peacoat and softening it with plush wool drill cloth in winter white.
Perhaps most inventive were the shoes — floral, python, ankle boots, leather booties with an extra ankle strap, gold, patent leather, oxford flats and retro T-straps. Something for every foot.