Derek Lam’s program notes open with this proclamation from dance great George Balanchine, “There are no new steps, only new combinations.” So Lam decided to mix it up a bit, for fashion and practicality.
Lightened layering was the mission -- body aware, but not body conscious -- and Lam put particular emphasis on fabric treatments working with mills to create texture and weight in materials that are traditionally reserved for warm weather such as cotton twill turned into a fab olive bomber with shearling collar.
Some of it was great: Shetland wool coats with horn toggles were sleeveless -- wear your turtleneck under, or a light coat over. A duo of flannel and rayon create a skirt. Leather-trimmed blanket-striped wool made for a smart coat and dress ensemble. And several gowns featured pebbled leather bodices and laundered satin or poplin skirts -- standout – one with deep side cutouts – call January Jones. Women who collect special items will go for the red lambskin jackets.
There were some misses – a tweed coat was too chunky, silk rayon jumpsuits may be convenient but weren’t a bit flattering, and one gigantic mound of a fur (yeah, yeah we know it’s in fashion) was almost sci-fi.