The gentle sheen of woven cellophane. Bright, geometric-print lace and macramé. And good ol' madras plaid. All three got equal time in Derek Lam’s spring collection, shown in a downtown warehouse near the Hudson River on Sunday.
The madras came out first, in super-wearable dresses and separates, some in contrasting muted shades (black, fatigue green and sun yellow) that looked good together. Then came the basket-weave cellophane, which gave an almost iridescent quality to camisoles and below-the-knee skirts. And at the top of the brightness dial, geometric-print guipure lace tees and macramé skirts, which can lean toward the craftsy or boho chic, but here feel mod.
Gabardine trench coats popped up in a few different sizes, one with huge rounded shoulders and full sleeves. And almost all these entries, both fun and functional.
The only potential misstep came at the end, when Lam offered up two skirts and a dress, the front of each piled on with gobs of laser-cut foil paillettes, like crumpled-up candy wrappers.
The colors were great — a deep, rich burgundy, cocoa, ink — but the problem with something so over-the-top (and oversized) is that only those with the twiggiest of figures can pull it off. Once you’re seeing that dress in something larger than a size 2, the more it’s looking like some perky, if well-intentioned, Easter basket.
Stick to those vivid guipure lace dresses and camisoles — just as perky, without the bulk.