As Fashion Week was winding down, it was Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa who delivered one of the week’s surprises – and a pleasant one – in a collection that was stunningly feminine with an apparent '40s influence, yet somehow in keeping with the line's minimalist aesthetic.
Though many a runway was on bold color overload, Costa kept it soft but not cold. Blush-colored garments had an organic peachy glow, and other shades included a yellow-cast ivory, smoky grey and of course, black which looked a little harsh against the gentle palette.
Wispy slip dresses of silk and tulle hit below the knee and featured miniscule straps. These read like luxe lingerie, as did several frocks with revealing transparent panels and fluted shapes. There were cleverly inserted pleats in a couple of looks and a tiny peplum on a few numbers. (Did someone say peplum and Calvin Klein in the same sentence?) Shawl-collared coats – some that tied like a robe – enhanced the sense of boudoir chic. More structured pieces included collarless jackets, culottes and wide-legged pants shown with a shawl-collared vest.
All in all, beautiful and likely a sell-out at retail next spring.