After a day of colors that at best could be called subdued, it was refreshing to see creative director Raul Melgoza's autumnal riot – fuchsia, orange, rust, ochre – light up the runway. And while Melgoza's collection highlighted the brand's signature high-end fabrics and outrageous techniques, the line seemed disorganized and incohesive.
There were ladylike skirts and blouses – some a bit, dare we say, dated. The best of these combos was the least formfitting -- a wide wool flannel banded skirt topped by an olive silk crepe blouse with lace insets. There was an orange, er, sweat suit out of suede, and a funky (not in a good way) pewter backless cocktail dress with puffs of fox all over.
But some stuff was stunning: silver birdseed embellishment on a cocktail dress and evening coat, and, oh, the gowns! One particular ochre confection featured a skirt of leaves – lovely.