Call it the "NEW New Look"--or "Gattaca" Glam--but whatever phrase you use to describe Marc Jacobs' latest collection, it is pure Marc. A cavalcade of vintage nostalgia done in a way that feels new, almost sci-fi modern, layered with don't-take-yourself-too-seriously touches (like witty fabrics, used to construct thick, voluminous "sequin to-look-like fur" sweaters, or the "rubber to-look-like sequins" skirts)--and all paired with killer shoes.
The silhouette features strong shoulders and accentuated waists reminiscent of Dior's post-war "New Look" frocks, but with layers of sparkle (cashmere-Lurex hoodies, sweatshirts and a series of bold, shiny dots on skirts, tops) that would've seemed at home in an early '80s disco.
Jacobs went positively dotty for dots--starting out small on skirts, blouses, jackets; then larger, shinier; and humorous (one black and white number felt very "101 Dalmatians"); then even 3D (with plastic-cabochon-studded pony-skin skirts, sweaters, berets, bags); not to mention the runway set itself, featuring wide pillars of tufted white leather.
The rubberized leather booties were super-high, shiny, cool--and clearly almost impossible to walk in. Many of the models clomped along in their long narrow, glisteny skirts and dresses, barely able to stride, a parade of overwhelmingly fashionable walking wounded. Especially given the chinstrap beanies they wore, as if they all had been stricken by a slightly glamorous toothache. Like we said...pure Marc.