The inspiration: The Depression-era song “Happy Days Are Here Again” may not have been inspiration per se, but it certainly was a strong influence — though it was not the traditional peppy version that Marc Jacobs played as the models strutted the runway. It wasn’t Barbara Streisand’s ironic, slower-paced version — not even the “Glee” duets take. Instead, an hypnotic voice recited the lyrics over and over, as if Jacobs thought we might need some convincing.
The vibe: Mysterious and subdued, as the models streamed along a zigzagging runway in a series of dresses, tunics — yes, get ready for tunics in a big way if Marc has his way — and pantsuits (such a quaint phrase, that, but these have a much more modern appeal) in mostly neutral shades. Camel, coffee, ivory, sand. The line started out with sporty looks (an updated jodhpur, trousers with track-pant-like seaming down the side). Dressier trousers soon played a major role — paired with those tunics or worn underneath sleek dresses with up-to-there slits. The final looks included eveningwear (spangly sequin tops and dresses with swirls of sparkly crystals.
The lust-o-meter: It feels like a whole new silhouette, those slit-dress/trouser hybrids. The look was smart, tailored. Here’s hoping it catches on. His updated jodhpurs were also high on the covet list, along with the booties (some with racy blocks of color, others quilted like a hunting jacket).
Hmmm...: The lack of bolder shades may limit the appeal for some customers, but the palette felt like a message. Happy days may be here again, but if so they’ve only just arrived. We’re on the cusp of an economic comeback, so the clothes are on the cusp of color, not yet flush with saturated hues but faded, muted, cautious.
Our take: This seems a highly marketable and commercial line, which means happy days — for us and Jacobs in particular — may very well be coming our way.