The inspiration: Our hyped-up, supertech, militaristic world. Or so it seemed. At the start, all we had to go on was the BIG PINK HOUSE. It sat in the middle of the Park Avenue Armory, where Marc Jacobs held his show Thursday, like an oversized suburban home surrounded by lavender gravel and rows of seating covered in hot pink shag carpeting. Comfy, that.
The vibe: Kitschy, cozy and soft, as Jacobs reworked the military garb in countless variations. There were scads of multi-pocket cargo pants, epaulet jackets, and voluminous bell-shaped dresses, many adorned with round buttony embellishments or cabochons. Things also felt rather techy, as attached to each seat was a pair of Beats by Dr. Dre headphones, in which we heard a modern, electronic soundtrack and computer-voiced narration, seeming to riff on the models. Like “the girl [turning] left at the bottom of the long path.” Or “Now send the gaptoothed girl with three bags to walk around.”
The lust-o-meter: High, especially for those voluminous wool dresses (wearable, feminine, cinched at the waist), the slouchy cargos, and some clever cargo dresses (with pockets, color-blocking and peepholes, as if Jacobs took a giant office hole-punch to the hems). Don’t forget the gaptoothed girl’s bags (especially the satiny wine weekender/backpack). And velvet Dr. Scholl’s-like slides. Ka-Ching.
Hmmm…: This seems like stylish gear for those who may be lunching, clubbing or warring at any second. Everything felt so vaguely casual -- uniforms turned into fashion statements. Sounds like us, doesn’t it? Those cargos sport pockets big enough to carry I.D., lipstick, spare ammo. Jacobs probably didn’t mean it so literally, but with the show coming on the heels of horrible headlines from the Middle East, Africa, Fill-in-the-Blank, that’s what springs to mind.
Our take: It was only near the end of the show, as the voice-over got more personal, that it seemed as if it must be Jacobs’ computer doing the talking. “I am writing on a computer sitting in a park in Cold Spring.” He notes exactly how far that is from the runway as if he’s checked an app. “There’s been too much going on. Can we move the house … to a place … where things are slower? I’ll be happy there.” Is this Jacobs, amid our too-fast, too-scary world, yearning to unplug? It’s telling that we all donned the headphones … but didn’t need to. The entire soundtrack was broadcast over big speakers in the room. We could’ve just sat back, unencumbered, and watched.