Marchesa journeyed to India in the most literal sense on a loooong runway set in Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Station. Program notes explained that designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig drew inspiration from the spirit of India in the 1960s as captured by The Beatles’ experience with the Maharishi.
The collection of brightly colored paisleys — chartreuse, garnet, fuchsia and teal — featured ornate embroideries and embellishments such as pearls, silver crystal, gold leaf and fringes.
It was a spectacle to be sure — and a feast for the eye. Tights were jewel-embroidered, a clever strapless pink sari boasted silver metal threadwork and orange and green floral pattern. There was an ethereal baby doll cocktail dress with sweet belled sleeves, and standout — a gold and ivory column gown with a matching ruffled crystal dotted peplum bolero that looked vintage.
There was something lovely and fresh about seeing the finery worn with flat sandals or small heels (and, oh, the comfort factor). One issue, perhaps, is that the collection was too authentic (cue the elephants) with cropped tops and low skirts that showed the belly, and a final series of white dresses that ran toward bridal wear (pretty, though).
We have to wonder if bodies beautiful such as Tyra Banks, Stacey Keibler and Kim Kardashian, who were there, would go for the trapeze-like silhouette that finished the show. We’ll see.