There are all sorts of contradictions coming for men this fall. Skip the tie, many designers say. But button up your dress shirt to the top. Or wear a tie -- but with a denim shirt. Wear a blazer -- but in a sweater-like fabric.
It's a clever trick -- selling the idea of dressing up, but wrapped in a youthful, rebellious package. It's one thing that seems to unify the fall menswear collections, presented recently just before and during Fashion Week. Here, some highlights. - Joseph V. Amodio
The look at DKNY is inside out and outside in. A gray blazer is actually outerwear-- puffed and nylon-padded. A dapper overcoat is made of neoprene, and that slick biker jacket (middle) is done up in wool. (Feb. 2013)
Rag and Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville bagged ties, favoring suiting with tees and knits. And they offered new pants options--theirs were high-waisted and trim, but not super-skinny. (Feb. 2013)
Billy Reid's rustic gents look solid -- like this chap in a cashmere neoprene coat with nutria collar, indigo piquet shirt, cherry houndstooth trouser and a waxed cap-toe shoe. (Feb. 2013)
Joseph Abboud went space-age--creative director Bernardo Rojo channeled the futuristic white curves of the TWA Flight Center and Apollo astronaut suits in slick knits and a zip coat with detachable fur hood and zip-off lower panel. (Feb. 2013)
Todd Snyder's "Rebel Gentlemen" line mixed things like a glen-plaid suit with chambray shirt, a brown suit with mustard sweater (pictured), a leather moto jacket with tux pants--wearable, but not ordinary. (Feb. 2013)
As for Tommy Hilfiger, check your astigmatism at the door. He layered up the hallmark prints of British tailoringhoundstooth, argyle, Prince of Wales checkson tapered trousers and smart jackets, beefing things up for American guys with shearling outerwear.
Marc by Marc Jacobs rocked a '70s vibe with cranked-up color, print shirts over turtlenecks, and thumbed a nose at the Thom Brownes of the world with fuller, longer trousers. (Feb. 2013)
Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic, jonesing on post-apocalyptic films like "Mad Max" and "Blade Runner," decked out models in vintage boxing gear, chain mail and moto pads, along with the brand's raw Western denim shirts, biker jackets, over-dyed cords and some awesome Japanese selvedge painted jeans (pictured). (Feb. 2013)
Steven Alan listened to a lot of Coltrane when creating his eponymous line, and a jazzy informal edge comes through in soft blazers and coats, super-slim flat-front pants (just hitting the ankle), and reverse-seam button-down shirts (buttoned to the top, please). (Feb, 2013)