Narciso Rodriguez made a name for himself by taking deceptively simple sheaths and transforming them into erotically charged dresses. With a gem-cutter's precision, he knew just where to make the narrowest slash — across the bodice, say, or the back — to great, sexy effect. Then came seasons where, like many designers, he flirted with volume, and the collections seemed…less familiar.
Now, Rodriguez seems to be offering up Narciso 2.0, an airy, breezier version of those earlier seasons, with kicky, asymmetric hems and alternating layers of sheer and solid silk and linen, slit or hanging open to reveal glimpses of bare skin. One black, white and aqua top looked like a long scarf in front, a strappy tank in back.
In some cases, the “slashing” is done with color (as in the terrific white cotton shirt dress with asymmetric aqua hem) or texture (velvet wave dresses with sheer swirls) or meandering stitches and seams. And always, the erotic tinge — like those last silver devoré silk dresses, with sheer patterns to reveal bright blue-and-tangerine bras underneath.