The inspiration: Narciso Rodriguez seems interested in volume this season — but not huge, bulbous amounts of it, the likes of which we saw a few seasons back from other designers and which had regular shoppers scratching their heads. (How are those of us weighing in at, um, more than 100 pounds actually supposed to wear that?) This volume is different — it’s just the slightest amount of fullness, and only seen in back, really, in the slightly fuller curve of a red cocoon coat, or crepe dress, or the slight arc of a sleeve.
The vibe: Relaxed, relaxed, relaxed. That slight fullness in the silhouette makes it look like the clothes are draped and flowing behind just a tad, just enough to add a graceful quality to your walk. This is easy, understated glamour at its best.
The lust-o-meter: What’s so satisfying is that Rodriguez’ artistry and attention to detail still comes in such accessible packages. The figure-skimming silhouettes from seasons past — always very sexy, sure, though not always practical — have been redrawn to allow a bit more room to breathe. Some stand-outs include a chalk wool crepe dress with seaming like a low-slung belt (a 1920s feel). Or the soft gray jacket revealing pink and russet color-block panels in the lining. Or the embroidered dresses (silver, bronze, violet or green) with a sweep of beading over one shoulder, as if brushed on like a dusting of snow.
What the...? We include this category in all the reviews because there’s usually at least one outfit or look in any collection that’s a bit odd, or doesn’t quite work, or seems astoundingly bizarre. Not here. Not Narciso.
Our take: His collections the past few years have been real success stories, but this season seems exceptionally well-done.