Narciso Rodriguez, known for his architectural, body-hugging cocktail dresses with sexy slits and cutouts, has been answering the call of a different muse in recent seasons, sending longer, looser confections down the runway. And this season, that trend continues.
Light-as-air chiffon and silk dresses, mostly three-quarter length and some with dropped waists, had a vaguely '30s feel. The palette was mostly black, silver, platinum and smoky grays, served up in long rectangular color blocks with pops of red, pink, lavender, as with a silk fil coupe dress, which had the look of an abstract painting. A black wool/silk cire dress had a long red stripe down each side, like the trim on tuxedo trousers -- but wider, more noticeable. Another wool/angora/leather vest in plum, worn with twill pants, had a long white panel straight down the front.
Graphic. Bold. With a collage of different fabrics that gives the collection an entirely new feel to that of years past. But . . . we can't help but wonder: What will steadfast fans like Juilianna Margulies or Julia Louis-Dreyfuss be wearing at the next Emmy Awards ceremony? Though artistically interesting, none of these seem likely to wind up in their closets.