Narciso Rodriguez is a slasher extraordinaire—known for outfitting celebs like Julianna Margulies and Julia Louis-Dreyfuss in sleek, figure-hugging numbers with sexy, slashed cutouts. For fall, he loosens the silhouette, and offers no flashes of skin, but keeps things exciting with unexpected, diagonal color-blocking and slashed, angled hemlines.
There are no horizontal or vertical lines here. Where’s the fun in that? He introduced his angular premise with the first few looks that came down the runway — black separates with angled hems revealing just a peek of white under a jacket or top. Then came a fab merino wool white coat with black and navy lines, like diagonally drawn graph paper.
Bright colors soon flooded the scene—a simple tangerine crepe dress with delicate folds at the shoulder; an azalea pink, color-blocked crepe top with cognac pant; then more color-blocking, in vivid combos of emerald, teal, fuchsia and oxblood, and alternating matte and satiny fabrics.
Rodriguez favors the A-line cut for fall, with cutaway coats and tops and trapeze dresses gently falling away from the body, and floating along as the models walked. It almost feels a little springlike, this fall collection, till you look closer and see the pants (and there were lots of them) are done in lightweight flannels and wool crepe, jackets in flowing merino wool.
For evening, he delivered embroidered dresses and separates — one dress with an asymmetrical panel of fluttering white beads; another black dress with angled hem revealing a sparkly embroidered slip underneath. The hemlines, by the way, are rather modest—no micro minis or thigh-high slits. Even his shoes — fantastic, by the way — are all about coverage: high-vamped pointy pumps and ankle-straps with super-high stiletto heels. But then if there’s one thing Rodriguez knows, it’s that the key to sex appeal is restraint.