First dress in Prabal Gurung’s lineup – a crimson crinkled silk number with an exposed cotton bustier and off-the-shoulder drape: think sexpot Red Riding Hood (sans hood). And this undercurrent of debauched glam, sort of vixen-meets-sweetheart, was a distinct theme of the collection with almost every look just a touch askew from ladylike, whether it was the striped black bondage Wolford hose, models with one neon stripe in their hair, or a cutaway jacket with a high-cut back revealing a woman’s form.
What about the idea that less is more? Well, this season, Gurung was not a fan, literally gilding the lily or the feathers (lots) with hand-painting, topping looks with giant colored Mongolian shrugs (so old Hollywood), or drenching a frock with every embellishment known to man – one dress alone bore these: Swarovski crystal, melted pailettes and silk organza laser-cut petals.
True, this is in keeping with the decorative mood of the season, and while colors (crimson, fuchsia, blush) and the handiwork were so much fun to view, our money is on the quieter pieces: an ivory hand-knit sweater dress or a dove silk chiffon gown paired with a turtleneck.