Prabal Gurung was thinking about women in the military for his fall 2013 collection – not just uniforms mind you, but the women who serve – and the balance of their strength and femininity.
Olive green openers included a nipped-waist, form-fitting officer’s jacket that managed to simultaneously convey aggression and sexiness. Furthering that theme were leather harnesses that outlined the body (a holdover from last season); stiff, structured peplums; and killer dominatrix boots for Prabal’s girls who absolutely won’t take no for an answer.
But feminine wiles were far from camouflaged in the severe tailoring and military riff. A chunky, hand-knit sweater was one of many looks that featured seductive, body-baring cutouts. You saw curves.
Evening (save for those harnesses) was a softer affair with languid, draped gowns in ivory, black and red that embraced the bod, some luxed up with fur, folkloric stitching and jeweled embellishment.