Nobody does romance like Zac Posen -- it’s part of the brand’s DNA, and perhaps what keeps his customers coming back, checking him out, despite a few bumpy seasons when the economy tumbled and we feared maybe he had, too. But the former infant terrible seemed to show a mature, refined side with this spring collection of pale florals, bias-cut satin gowns and sculpted, ruffled skirts.
Peach, pink, lemon, mint -- the palette here is soft, softer, softest, with delicate patterns of wisteria and camellias. Pants lovers get a dramatic option -- voluminous silk taffeta ball pants, each leg wider than the average skirt. And the skirting is light, flowing, graceful, with tiers and flounces of chiffon or organza -- a perfect match for the hair, which was piled high and delicate, a few flower blossoms strewn in back.
Posen knows how to dress for a woman’s curves, so there was the occasional decadent flash of sex -- like the boysenberry chiffon gown cut on the bias (a juicy, saturated hue), or the purple and gray camellia gown with tight bodice and mermaid flounce.
The show became, perhaps, a bit repetitive (a few too many floral prints or Grecian numbers with tiers of ruffled chiffon) but there was a calm and reserve to the proceedings that was refreshing. This is what spring is all about -- a chance to breathe deep, walk lightly, start fresh.