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SUR LA TABLE WITH MARTHA

America's doyenne of entertaining will be signing copies of her new book, "Martha's American Food" (Potter, $40), tomorrow from 6 to 8 p.m. at Sur la Table in Manhasset. The book, subtitled "a celebration of our nation's most treasured dishes, from coast to coast," includes 200 recipes, organized geographically.

The tony cookware store on Manhasset's Miracle Mile is notoriously short on parking, but assistant manager Dawn Blair said valets will be on hand and, because the event doesn't start until 6, some of the store's neighbors will be closed, freeing up valuable spaces. "We're just going to stay positive," she said.

There are rules for the event, Blair said: Martha Stewart will sign copies of only her newest book, and books to be signed must have been purchased at Sur la Table in Manhasset. Buying a book, however, does not guarantee you will get it signed, Blair said.

Sur la Table is at 1468 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516-365-3297. -- ERICA MARCUS


NO FARMED FISH AT ATHENS GRILL

It was Friday night, I was at a Greek restaurant, and I was jonesing for fish. The menu at Athens Grill in Riverhead, however, offered grilled sardines as an appetizer, Pacific halibut as a main, and that was it. Where, I wondered, was the whole grilled branzino, the sauteed tilapia, the herb-crusted salmon?

We ordered the sardines, and they were fantastic. For my main, I went for the moussaka, which was sweet with vegetables and meat, topped with a thick layer of creamy béchamel.

A few days later, I got chef-owner John Mantzopoulos on the phone, and the first thing I asked him was: "What, no salmon?" Mantzopoulos responded that although there had been wild Pacific salmon in the market that week, it was too expensive. "What, no farmed salmon?" was my follow-up. No, Mantzopoulos doesn't serve farmed salmon. He doesn't serve any farmed fish, and that's why neither tilapia nor branzino graces his menu.

"I try to buy whatever is running," he said. "For the last two weeks, the halibut from Alaska has been great. This time of year -- before a lot of local fish starts -- it's tough."

Athens Grill is at 33 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-1301. -- ERICA MARCUS


LUNCH LAUNCHES AT MARKET BISTRO

Market Bistro in Jericho has just launched a lunch menu, available Tuesday to Friday from noon to 3 p.m.

Father and son chefs Bill and Chris Holden are offering, among other choices, a starter of duck liver mousse ($5), a salmon salad with manchego cheese, Serrano ham, dates, almonds and olives ($18), a "1946" burger made with a combination of dry-aged rib-eye, Kobe brisket and short ribs ($14) and ravioli with wild mushrooms ($16).

Market Bistro is at 519 N. Broadway, Jericho; 516-513-1487. -- JOAN REMINICK

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