The new Bronx Pizza Co., situated in an industrial-looking Syosset strip mall north of the LIE, is a cozy little place that may soon become bigger. As co-owner Al Zilla tells it, his family, whose culinary lineage goes back to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, is waiting for permits to expand into the vacant space next door, adding a full-fledged dining room with 75 seats.
For now, though, the place has a takeout counter and bar area with a few tables. On tap are 17 beers, several of them craft brews. The pizza oven, Zilla said, burns both coal and gas.
The place also smokes its own meat and hand-cuts potatoes for fries. Some items on its varied menu: a smoked salmon salad with lemon vinaigrette ($12), a house-smoked turkey wrap ($9) and an entrée of chicken Francese ($17).
Bronx Pizza Co. is at 235 Robbins Lane, Syosset; 516-802-4112. -- JOAN REMINICK
GREAT NECK BURGERS
Cheeburger Cheeburger has opened up in The Gardens in Great Neck. (That's the Waldbaum's shopping center, at the corner of Middle Neck and Great Neck roads.) Cheeburger Cheeburger, a nostalgia-themed burger-fries-shakes restaurant, also has locations in Farmingdale and Plainview, but all three Long Island stores are owned separately.
The new Cheeburger Cheeburger is at 46 Great Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-829-2433. -- Erica Marcus
FOUR-STAR DIM SUM
Dim sum, dished out from roving carts, has long been a weekend brunch tradition in the Chinese-American community. Only a few Long Island restaurants offer this kind of service, though -- The Orient in Bethpage and Fortune Wheel in Levittown spring to mind. So it is welcome news that Sunday dim sum is now on the menu at Monsoon Asian Kitchen and Lounge in Babylon, which recently received four stars from Newsday's Peter Gianotti.
Even so, don't expect to see chicken feet, parsnip cakes or jellyfish on Monsoon's carts. Instead, all the appetizers listed on the restaurant's brunch menu -- sushi included -- will be what's going around the dining rooms. Among choices will be a smaller version of the regular spicy tuna roll ($8), edamame dumplings in mushroom sake broth ($4), steamed pork belly buns ($4) and a kimchee pancake ($8).
Monsoon Asian Kitchen and Lounge is at 48 Deer Park Ave., Babylon, 631-587-4400. -- JOAN REMINICK