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After a gestation period of more than three years, Jellyfish in Centerport finally opened on Tuesday night. The place, perched over Centerport Harbor, makes its debut under executive chef James McDevitt, who was profiled in 2009 as a Newsday All-Star Chef.

Jellyfish, under the same ownership as the neighboring Thatched Cottage, is situated in a historic Centerport mansion. There's an aquarium room with a coral reef tank, a koi pond and even a trout pond for kids to catch their dinner, should they be so inclined. Rotating exhibits from the Vanderbilt Mansion will be featured there, as well. At the "Jelly Bar," there's sushi as well as clams and oysters. Get a root-beer float or vanilla malted milk at the old-fashioned soda fountain. The wine and chocolate bar in the lower level will have live music and dancing along with dessert from Thursday to Saturday until 2 a.m.

McDevitt achieved national recognition at Restaurant Hapa in Scottsdale, Ariz., and, later, Budo in Napa, Calif. On Long Island, McDevitt was both a partner and executive chef at Four Food Studio in Melville, the former Two Steak & Sushi Den and K-Pacho in New Hyde Park. At Jellyfish, he joins general manager Jack Chang, who previously managed Two and, before that, Nobu in Manhattan.

McDevitt's menu includes Alaskan rock shrimp cakes ($15), Syrah-braised octopus ($15), Cantonese-style lobster with pork belly ($34), Long Island duck breast with risotto-style creamy faro and fresh plums ($27).

Dessert chef Stacey McDevitt, who is married to the executive chef, will be making such finales as a warm date pudding ($8) and cheesecake in a jar with seasonal fruit ($10). James McDevitt said the place will be selling some of his wife's pastries -- tarts, cakes and crumbles -- for takeout, too.

Jellyfish is at 441 E. Main St., Centerport, 631-262-0300, -- JOAN REMINICK


After closing for a brief period, The Original Kasper's Hot Dogs in Northport is up and running again with a new co-owner at the helm. Artie Berke of the nearby Nina's Pizza has expanded what was once a limited menu while retaining the smoky steamed franks the place had been known for.

The new repertoire was put together by Franco LaRocca, who is now executive chef at Nina's and, before that, cooked at the former Blue Chill in Babylon. On a recent afternoon, I had a Chicago dog ($3.75), a smoky, garlicky all-beef steamed frank that had that snap one wants in a wiener. It was served on a nicely proportioned grilled bun and topped with yellow mustard, green relish, dill pickle, onion, tomatoes and peppers. While this wasn't a classic Chicago dog -- no celery salt, no sport peppers -- it worked. Also on the list of inventive dogs is something called the "Wazilla" ($3.95), topped with Asian slaw, fried wontons, wasabi cream and teriyaki sauce.

Also available: Salads and soups.

The Original Kasper's Hot Dogs is at 40 Woodbine Ave., Northport, 631-651-9377, -- JOAN REMINICK

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