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UPSCALE KITSCH

Main Catch casts a drift net, taking in seafood, sushi and steak. It's a threesome that has broad appeal.

And this new eatery, from the crew behind the very casual Southside Fish and Clam in Lindenhurst, does pretty well, upscaling the style and the substance.

Inside, it's a combo of the streamlined and the kitschy. Main Catch also sports a sushi bar and an oyster bar. Good choices include the generous shrimp cocktail and grilled swordfish finished with a lemony beurre blanc, with amaretto-spiked cheesecake for dessert. Colorful sushi rolls are carefully prepared, too. Main courses generally are in the mid-$20s; sushi rolls reach the mid-teens.

Main Catch, 1095 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-486-8864 -- PETER M. GIANOTTI


TING'S THE THING

The newest Ting in Huntington turns out to be another Asian Fusion restaurant. This one makes its home in the lavishly decorated space that previously housed Legacy Asian Fusion and, before that, Dao and, for a number of years, Empire Szechuan Gourmet.

Executive sushi chef Jacky Zheng, who rolled raw fish at Dao, returns to his reincarnated digs with a repertoire that includes wonton sushi tacos ($13), the ornate Playboy roll -- spicy salmon, peppered white tuna and more ($13) -- as well as chirashi ($23).

Executive chef Alex Neoh cooked at the Four Seasons Hotel in Malaysia. His menu includes red curry duck ($24), shrimp with Malaysian sambal sauce ($17) and kung pao chicken with cashew nuts ($14).

Ting is at 92 E. Main St., Huntington, 631-425-7788. -- JOAN REMINICK


DAISHO OF JAPAN

It was hard to believe that a small wooden skewer of grilled meat could deliver so much flavor. In fact, the pork yakitori at the new Daisho of Japan in Huntington looked kind of shriveled and brown. One bite, though, unleashed such a moist and spicy burst that I found myself taken aback. At $1.75, that skewer -- which held three pieces of meat -- had to be one of the town's top bargains.

It didn't stop there. Skewered quail eggs wrapped in bacon ($2.95) played the smoky-salty against the smooth and creamy. And then there were shrimp ($1.95), so succulent and spicy.

For a main course, a big bowl of ramen noodle soup harbored a tangle of fresh toothsome noodles and plenty of smoky roasted pork in an ultra-savory pork broth. All that and a spot-on rainbow roll from the sushi bar ($10.95).

The restaurant, dramatically dark and surprisingly spacious, makes its home in the former Dragon Gate space and is under the same partial ownership. Dragon Gate, now a takeout situated around the corner at 6 Green St., Huntington, 631-385-8100, is connected through the kitchen.

Daisho of Japan is at 308 Main St., Huntington, 631-385-8102. -- JOAN REMINICK

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