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3 Chinese stars

Sit-down dinner at Fortune Wheel, 3601 Hempstead Tpke.

Sit-down dinner at Fortune Wheel, 3601 Hempstead Tpke. (Nassau Mall), Levittown: One of Long Island's top 10 Chinese restaurants, Fortune Wheel stands out with seafood and dim sum. The dumplings are especially fine, as are the lobster specialties. The bustling restaurant evokes another era. Credit: Nicole Horton

Long Island Chinese restaurants, once headed for takeout doom, have been making a comeback. Here are three choices where you may join in the revival.

Sandwiched between Best Buy and BJas Wholesale Club<NO1>cq/pb<NO> in the Nassau Mall is time-capsule Fortune Wheel. Go for the dim sum and the seafood. Try steamed pork buns, fried chicken, Sichuan shrimp and either ginger-scallion lobster, lobster Cantonese, or lobster in black bean sauce. $$-$$$
3601 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown; 516-579-4700.

The name says almost everything. Come here for Shanghai-style soup dumplings, especially the steamed minced crab-and- ground pork combination. Also: pork soup dumplings, crystal shrimp dumplings, chicken dumplings, eggplant with garlic sauce, Singapore mei fun with curry, spring rolls. $$
1320 Stony Brook Rd.,  Stony Brook; 631-675-6899.

Far from a diner, Yaoas specializes in fiery Sichuan cuisine, seafood and offal. Notable: fried lamb with cumin, cool and peppery pickled cabbage, dry sauteed string beans, kung pao lotus root, anumbinga chicken, spicy sesame noodles, beef and tripe with hot pepper sauce. $$
2503 Middle Country Rd., Centereach; 631-588-2218.

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