Restaurants attached to fish markets are about freshness rather than fanciness. The following places display their finfish and shellfish for all to see -- and then savor

PINE AIRE FISH & DELI, 140 Pine Aire Dr., Bay Shore, 631-231-1655

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This colorful Salvadoran seafood house is attached to a fish market, so you know everything is super-fresh. Recommended: terrific seviche, sopa de pescado (rich fish soup boasting clams, shrimp, egg and whole snapper), grilled jumbo shrimp and fried porgy.

ARTIE'S SOUTH SHORE FISH & GRILL, 4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park, 516-889-0692

Not only does this informal eatery share quarters with a fish market, but owner Artie Hoerning is a commercial fisherman who reels in much of what he sells and serves. Highlights include first-rate Ipswich clams, swordfish, lobster rolls and house-made fries. 

OFF THE HOOK SEAFOOD MARKET & GRILL, 1965 Jericho Tpke., East Northport; 631-858-2393

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The little fish market and restaurant (formerly Jeff's Seafood Gallery) looks like a veritable museum of seafood house kitsch. Ignore all the fishnet and ropes and concentrate, instead, on the very good crabcakes and all-important fish -- fried, grilled and available with some interesting sauces.