Asian-fusion cuisines vary dramatically from place to place and evoke responses pro and con. Here are three fine restaurants that get it right, in the kitchen and in the dining room.

THOM THOM, 3340 Park Ave., Wantagh; 516-221-802

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Steak and sushi are the staples at Thom Thom. But go for the kung pao calamari, with ground peanuts, and the bang-bang shrimp, with a sweet-chile glaze. If you're feeling more Euro: seafood paella and braised pork osso buco. Good Thai curry mussels and flatbread goat cheese pizza, too.

KASHI SUSHI & STEAKHOUSE, 222 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre; 516-442-7600

The Rockville Centre branch of Kashi stands out with creative sushi. But consider dishes such as the blue-crab fajita, almond-crusted red snapper, the combo of lobster salad and seared peppered tuna with coconut-laced guacamole, and lemongrass hot-and-sour soup.

FANCY LEE, 101 W. Main St., Babylon; 631-422-6505

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In what used to be a diner, Fancy Lee combines Chinese, Japanese and Thai cuisines, plus hibachi cooking. And the kitchen offers fusion dishes that include king salmon carpaccio, yellowtail with serrano chilies, three-flavor tuna tartare and garlic abalone.