In these cases, they're very, very nice -- plenty of flavor, texture and harmony on either good bread or an apropos roll.
Two spins on the Reuben are grand. "The hipster" is made with house-cured pork, stout mustard, Gruyère cheese, and fennel 'kraut on grilled sourdough; "the traditionalist," with corned beef, sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese, and "Strong Island" dressing pressed on rye toast. $$
1014 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport; 631-651-5480
Bistro meets pub. The croque monsieur here is smoked ham, melted Gruyère cheese and country-style sourdough bread; the house version of a croque madame adds an egg. Competition comes from the grilled tuna bánh mì. $$
10 Main St. (Parrish Mews), East Hampton, 631-324-8555
Such choices as the "deli double," or hot corned beef and pastrami on junior rolls; the PLT with grilled pastrami, lettuce and tomato on rye toast; the hot, open brisket; and the Thanksgiving number, with freshly sliced turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce. $$
135 Alexander Ave., Lake Grove; 631-979-8770