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420 North in Great Neck: First bites

Porterhouse steak served on a plate at 420

Porterhouse steak served on a plate at 420 North restaurant in Great Neck. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

The exit of Oevo in Great Neck prompted an immediate question: What happened to that pizza oven?

Well, it's working just fine at 420 North, which succeeds Oevo at the Northern Boulevard address. Actually, a lot of things are good at 420 North.

Friendly service, warm style and dependable cooking contribute early on. So, sample one of those pizzas, especially the four-cheese number capped with Gruyere, Gorgonzola, Asiago and mozzarella; or maybe the "aviator," which flies in with Gorgonzola, caramelized onion and pear.

Flavorful bucatini with calamari and shellfish in a spirited red sauce also stands out, along with a juicy porterhouse steak. The "open cannoli" arrives as a flower-shaped shell filled with tasty, creamy ricotta.

Owner John Ringle formerly was executive chef at Vittorio's in Amityville; and operated Avanti restaurants in Baldwin and Seaford.

Appetizers, salads and pizzas are $8 to $15; pastas and main courses, $16 to $33.

420 North, 420 Northern Blvd., Great Neck; 516-504-9690.

Photo: Sliced porterhouse steak at 420 North.

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