Shan-e-Mughlia, a little strip mall spot that opened earlier this year in East Meadow, spotlights the flavors of Pakistan and India.
I stopped into the simply decorated storefront early on a recent evening. While I enjoyed some of what I ate, the experience was a mixed one. Table service was friendly but the food came to the table in random fashion. Preceded by the sound of a microwave beeping was a dish of chicken jalfrazi ($6.99). Despite having been reheated, it was actually quite good. But a kebab roll — chicken and beef seek kebab wrapped in nan ($3) — turned out to be dry and pungent. An order of plain nan, which I'd expected to be hot and pliant, was lukewarm and stiff.
The best dishes took the longest to come: a first-rate chicken tikka leg, dripping with its crimson marinade and savory-spicy to the bone. And a Mughlai “chicken stick” — a wooden skewer holding nuggets of poultry, lightly crisp on the outside, moist and deftly spiced within.
Shan-e-Mughlia is at 2079 Hempstead Tpke., 516-280-9696