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Acacia in Huntington: First bites

Fennel-crusted yellowfin tuna is served at Acacia in

Fennel-crusted yellowfin tuna is served at Acacia in Huntington. (Jan. 2014) Credit: Newsday Peter Gianotti

Fittingly, Acacia is across the street from The Paramount in Huntington. It also puts on quite a show.

Chef Matthew Maxwell, whose resume includes stints at the departed Riverbay in Williston Park and The Water Club in Manhattan, sends out savory mussel pots, plus very good sea scallops, fennel-crusted yellowfin tuna,  and filet mignon with scalloped potatoes.

The restaurant has a comparatively short menu, but almost everything can be recommended. Only desserts such as apple brown betty and chocolate polenta trail.

On Thursday, Friday and Saturday, at 11 p.m., the mood transitions. A DJ raises the decibels at the dimly lit spot. On Wednesday night, there's live  from a guitarist, acoustic variety.

Acacia, 371 New York Ave., Huntington; 631-923-2299.

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