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Amarelle, Wading River: Do-it-yourself lobster roll

At Amarelle in Wading River, lobster salad is

At Amarelle in Wading River, lobster salad is served with brioche toast and celery-root salad. (August 5, 2012) Credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

When is a lobster roll not a lobster roll? When you have to assemble it yourself.

On a recent evening, I happily put in the work at Amarelle in Wading River, where the lobster comes piled up in the middle of a plate, flanked by slices of “toasted brioche.” Actually, I have a feeling that these slices of brioche had been fried in butter — they were that rich and delicately crusty. I piled the lobster onto the toast, which left a buttery residue on my fingers as I messily consumed the ad hoc sandwich.

About that lobster, it was big lumps of meat that were oh-so-lightly bound with a tarragon-infused cream. Tarragon: we don’t see enough of you! Accompanying the proceedings was a salad of shredded celery root. This salad is traditionally done with rémoulade, a sort of Frenchified tartar sauce, but I imagine the chef didn’t want the celery root to compete with the lobster, so she dressed it with a tart vinaigrette. Excellent decision.

Amarelle is at 2028 N. Country Rd., Wading River, 631-886-2242.

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