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Amityville: Greek revival @ Athena

ATHENS, GREECE - AUGUST 23: Wild fire and

ATHENS, GREECE - AUGUST 23: Wild fire and smoke illuminate the sky behind the ancient Acropolis on August 23, in Athens, Greece. Authorities have declared a state of emergency as the large wildfire has raged since Friday, destroying homes and forcing thousands to flee the inferno. The blaze is the worst suffered by mainland Greece since 2007. (Photo by Milos Bicanski/Getty Images) Credit: Getty/Milos Bicanski

Greek restaurants on Long Island often fall into two categories: souvlaki joints and high-end spots for imported fish. Athena finds middle ground, with savory food, moderate prices, plus very good service.

This eatery has been around for years, tucked away in a little shopping area that lately has looked like a construction site. You have to be on the lookout.

Inside, it's bright and spare, reserving the color for the dishes. The cold appetizers, including the familiar spreads of carp roe, potatoes and garlic, roasted eggplant and chick peas, all are excellent. So's the ample Greek salad. The house prepares one of the lightest versions of moussaka in either Nassau or Suffolk, in vegetarian and meat versions. Tasty baklava, too.

And it does a big take-out business. For good reason.

Athena, 65A Merrick Rd., Amityville; 631-691-4607. 

Acropolis illuminated

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