Amazingly, Anthony Scotto has not opened an Italian restaurant on Long Island for more than 50 years. A herd of steakhouses, catering halls to seat thousands, yes. But One10 in Melville, which opened last week for special events (and will start serving lunch and dinner in early January) is the first Italian concept he’s launched since Scotto’s Pizzeria and Restaurant debuted in Port Washington in 1967, a scant six years after his family emigrated from Monte di Procida, a fishing village near Naples.
This being an Anthony Scotto establishment, “Italian restaurant” doesn’t really convey the scale of the place. At 14,000 square feet, it’s not quite as cavernous as One North, the opulent pan-Mediterranean colossus he opened in Jericho in 2017. But it’s bigger than any of his steakhouses: Insignia (2011), Rare650 (2009) and Blackstone (2005). It rises on the site of a former Wonder Bread Hostess warehouse and distribution center and, so customers don’t have to make a U-turn, the town of Huntington was persuaded to add a southbound left-turn signal to the intersection of Broadhollow and Spagnoli roads.
As with One North, the vast space is broken up into more manageable pieces: a mozzarella-and-oyster bar; a “regular” bar that starts inside and stretches into the all-glass atrium that, in fine weather, opens to the elements; lounge seating and a proper (and huge) dining room. The materials — tile, copper, marble, leather — are luxurious but the palette of white, gray and chestnut is subtle.
The menu is designed to be a bit less steep than at Scotto’s other restaurants, with most appetizers priced below $15, pastas in the low $20s, mains topping out in the mid $30s, burgers less than $20.
Yes, burgers. Scotto and executive chef Ron Gelish (most recently at One North) have expanded the boundaries of Italian to include a Pat LaFrieda burger (with smoked pork belly, Camembert, watercress, pickled onion, horseradish aioli on a pretzel bun) as well as shishito peppers and entree salads.
Italian selections include imported buffalo mozzarella (or fior di latte or burrata) with vegetable or salumi accompaniments; fritto misto, grilled calamari piadino (flatbread), spaghetti alla chitarra cacio e pepe, fettuccine with black truffle cream sauce, paccheri pomodoro, grilled branzino with roasted tomato, broiled veal chop with asparagus and herb butter. The wine list, the work of sommelier Juliette Murphy, features more than 600 wines, with dozens by the glass.
Scotto expects One10 to open fully for business the first week in January but, until then, it will be hosting events such as a wine-and-spirits "soiree" with dancing on Dec. 20 ($150), an Antinori wine dinner on Dec. 17 ($175) and a New Year’s Eve bash ($169). For more information, go to one10restaurant.com.
It’s been a busy few months for the Scotto empire (which, in addition to the restaurants also includes the catering facilities Westbury Manor, Fox Hollow in Woodbury, Chateau Briand in Carle Place and Watermill in Smithtown). In September, the group bought Jewel in Melville from Tom Schaudel and his partner Marc Beige. (Read all about the sale here.)
Scotto plans to close Jewel for a thorough renovation and rebranding in May, 2020, but for now, executive chef Tomoyuki Kobayashi has already reworked the menu. There’s still a small selection of sushi, both traditional and creative. The rest of the menu blends Mediterranean, Asian and New American influences with items such as grilled octopus and short-rib tacos, baked clam pizza, red quinoa salad, beef-broccoli yaki ramen, miso black cod, brick-pressed chicken and Wagyu brisket burger.
One10, 569 Broadhollow Rd., Melville, 631-694-3333, one10restaurant.com
Jewel, 400 Broadhollow Rd., Melville, 631-755-5777, jewelrestaurantli.com