Surrounded by water, diners in Nassau and Suffolk should expect first-class seafood. But you have to look around for restaurants that have the catch and prepare it with skill. Here are three.
Artie’s South Shore Fish Market and Restaurant in Island Park stays faithful to the intentions of the late fisherman and fishmonger, Artie Hoerning at the casual eatery and in the market. Recommended: lobster rolls, steamed lobster, grilled swordfish, grilled tuna, almond-crusted sole, fried calamari, grilled calamari, New England-style clam chowder. Moderate.
Artie’s South Shore Fish Market and Restaurant, 4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park, 516-889-0692, southshorefish.com
Southold Fish Market in Southold is both market and informal restaurant. Recommended: Peconic Bay scallops, charbroiled oysters, fried Ipswich clams, fish and chips made with cod, seafood salad, lobster roll, New England-style clam chowder. Moderate.
Southold Fish Market, 64775 Main Rd. (Route 25), Southold, 631-765-3200.
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House in Roslyn has been serving since 1957. It’s a local landmark. Recommended: extra-thick cut swordfish steak with mustard sauce; marinated and seared yellowfin tuna; macadamia-crusted salmon; shellfish cocktails; oysters and clams on the half shell; lobsters; banana cream pie; chocolate cream pie. Expensive.
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, 25 Main St., Roslyn, 516-621-0055, jollyfishermanrestaurant.com