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Artie’s South Shore in Island Park: Welcome back

At Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill in

At Artie's South Shore Fish & Grill in Island Park, a swordfish steak is sauteed in blackened butter and served with sauteed spinach and French fries. (Feb. 13, 2013) Credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

Artie’s South Shore Fish & Grill is half fish market, half fish restaurant, and all Long Island, a perfect expression of the maritime culture of Nassau’s South Shore.

It was a tough fall for owner Artie Hoerning. Superstorm Sandy left his establishment with about 30 inches of water; all the cooking equipment had to be replaced. He reopened after six weeks, and yesterday I stopped by for a lunch of swordfish.

Hoerning’s favorite method of cooking swordfish is to season it with lots of black pepper, saute it in blackened butter until it’s a little crusty on both sides and finish it in a hot oven. That’s exactly what his chef, Noahe Fuentes, did.

Served with sauteed spinach and Artie’s excellent French fries on a plastic plate, this swordfish steak was the equal of any I've had at the fanciest restaurants.

Artie’s South Shore Fish & Grill is at 4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park, 516-889-0692.

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