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Good Evening

Asian Fusion, the restaurant, comes to Glen Cove

The exemplary peanut-avocado roll at Asian Fusion in

The exemplary peanut-avocado roll at Asian Fusion in Glen Cove Credit: Newsday, 2011/Joan Reminick

Asian Fusion isn’t just a genre; it’s the actual name of a new Japanese-Chinese-Thai restaurant in Glen Cove. I headed there, one recent afternoon, in hopes of discovering that more thought was being invested in the food than what went into the naming of the place. What I found was a simple storefront with persimmon-colored walls and a friendly crew. 

Lunch sent mixed messages. My companion has an obsession with peanut-avocado rolls, so we ordered one for starters. It turned out exemplary — loaded with nuts, drizzled ever so lightly with honey. A lunch special ($8) began with a bowl of tom yom goong (hot and sour shrimp lemongrass soup) entirely missing the requisite shrimp. Still, it had good flavor. The main course — a rather soupy Penang chicken curry, requested spicy — went well below mild into wimpy. As for an otherwise straightforward and fine sushi lunch special ($10), it was marred by the presence of a cooked shrimp the consistency of cotton.

On the dinner menu: lobster avocado salad ($10), chirashi ($17), pad Thai ($9) and General Tso’s chicken ($11).

Asian Fusion is at 66 School St., Glen Cove, 516-277-1892.

Above, The peanut-avocado roll at Asian Fusion in Glen Cove

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