Asian fusion has its fans. But if you want to focus intently on a specific cuisine from the continent, here are three recommendations.
SRIPRAPHAI (Thai), 280 Hillside Ave., Williston Park; 516-280-3779 sripraphairestaurant.com
Here’s the suburban offspring of the original Woodside Thai, fired up and flavorful. Recommended: larb, or ground lamb with mint, dry chilies and lime juice; chicken curry puffs; fried chive-vegetable dumplings; pad Thai; fried whole red snapper; steamed whole striped bass; panang curry.
CHEF WANG (Chinese), 1902 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-354-2858 chefwangny.com
A leading kitchen in the new wave of Chinese restaurants on Long Island, Chef Wang specializes in the spicy, very satisfying fare of Sichuan. Notable dishes include fried lamb or beef with cumin; pickled ginger with shredded duck; Chengdu spicy fish; pork dumplings; pork buns; smoked tofu.
BE-JU SASHIMI & SAKE BAR (Japanese), 400 Broadhollow Rd., Melville; 631-755-0555 bejusushi.com
Elegant, subtle and inventive, Be-Ju is a must for devotees of sushi and sashimi. All sushi and sashimi are recommended, as are dishes such as bluefin toro with green olive tapenade, steamed monkfish liver with sea urchin and ponzu; shrimp-and-sea urchin risotto; and tuna tataki.