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Barmani's Kitchen and Bar opens in Huntington

A rack of lamb with fingerling potatoes at

A rack of lamb with fingerling potatoes at Barmani's, which has opened in Huntington. Credit: Newsday/Corin Hirsch

Barman Sharifi is something of a serial restaurateur: The current owner (with his wife, Michelle Cipriano) of Harbor Mist in Cold Spring Harbor, the former owner of Aqua Blue in Roslyn and Pasta's Cafe in Manhasset — and a few other places besides — has taken the plunge again, this time with a new American spot in Huntington that is the first to bear his name.

Barmani's Kitchen and Bar, which opened last week in the Wall Street space where Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse closed last year, has a handsome dining room of white tablecloths and deep neutral walls and a menu that runs to of-the-moment darlings such as grilled octopus, flash-fried shishito peppers and zucchini noodles, plus what may be a first: Avocado toast on a dinner menu.

Leading the kitchen is chef and partner Ramon Lourido, who also oversees Harbor Mist and takes a sweeping approach to this new American menu, hitting the Mediterranean (lamb meatballs with tzatziki), Germany (sort of — panko-crusted pork chops with braised red cabbage), and various parts of Italy and America (tagliatelle with ragu, buttermilk-brined fried-chicken, rack of lamb). 

Barmani's octagonal bar has a handful of taps and cocktails that run to fuchsia hibiscus martinis and a mezcal paloma, with a backup battalion of Napa cabs and New Zealand sauvignon blanc by the glass. Appetizers start at $12, pastas at $21, and entrees at $22 (topping out at $44, for a grilled sirloin). Longtime pastry chef Michelle Cipriano, also a partner, makes all of Barmani's desserts, such as cheesecake and a chocolate souffle.

In a village already loaded with restaurants, why would someone choose Barmani's? (I had to ask). "We never say 'no' to anyone," said Barman, who came to the U.S. from Iran with his family in 1975, and makes sure each table is graced with hummus and naan. "You want the chicken off the bone, no problem. We accommodate all requests."

Barmani's opens daily at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner. Find it at 65 Wall St. in Huntington, in the Village Square shopping center. 631-659-3889. barmanis.com.

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